Michelin’s failed guide to food in Beijing
Michelin, the French dining guide, launched its first Beijing edition on November 28, featuring 23 starred restaurants and 77 other recommendations. The editors of the Michelin guides have always been utter philistines when it comes to Chinese food, and this year is no different. Beijing celebrity chef and founder of the Da Dong restaurant group, Dǒng Zhènxiáng 董振祥, wrote a widely circulated essay titled “Pursuing aroma and expelling stench in food: A reflection of Michelin’s rating of Chinese restaurants” (in Chinese), which slams the guide.
Photo credit: The China Project illustration by Derek Zheng
Michelin, the French dining guide, launched its first Beijing edition on November 28, featuring 23 starred restaurants and 77 other recommendations.
The editors of the Michelin guides have always been utter philistines when it comes to Chinese food, and this year is no different.
Beijing celebrity chef and founder of the Da Dong restaurant group, Dǒng Zhènxiáng 董振祥, wrote a widely circulated essay titled “Pursuing aroma and expelling stench in food: A reflection of Michelin’s rating of Chinese restaurants” (in Chinese), which slams the guide. Excerpt:
The sense of cultural superiority communicated in their selection of Beijing dishes creates an illusion that the culinary level of ordinary people in China remains on tripes, offal, and viscera. But these foods obviously do not capture mainstream Chinese culinary culture, let alone the artistic elegance of Chinese cuisine.
For details, click through to The China Project: Chinese celebrity chef roasts Michelin’s Beijing guide.
